[cabwriter]

Hi Gary,

So sorry I missed your reply. The reason you weren’t seeing the options is that you never upgraded to CabWriter 5 and I was only looking to see whether people had valid CabWriter 5 licenses, but your last license key was for version 4. I added detection for version 4 onto the page, so it should work now. Can you give it another try and let me know how you fare?

Sorry for the inconvenience…

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Gary,

The problem is your license key for CabWriter 5 doesn’t work with version 6. You just need to go through the upgrade process to get a new set of version 6 license keys. This is free assuming you’re up to date on your support membership. You can do the upgrade here:

Support

Just click on Upgrade to CabWriter 6 in the upper right corner.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi There,

I’m guessing you’re probably putting in a license key for CabWriter 5 which won’t work with version 6. You just need to go through the upgrade process to get a new set of version 6 license keys. This is free assuming you’re up to date on your support membership. You can do the upgrade here:

Support

Just click on Upgrade to CabWriter 6 in the upper right corner.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Jeremy,

Unfortunately, I don’t think we’ll be able to include that type of door within CabWriter. It is not a common style for general kitchen design. We need to make sure something big like that would benefit a large number of our users and we’ve never had a request for that before and I don’t know that I’ve ever seen a kitchen done with that style of door. If we get into very specific, one off door styles like that, it could be a very slippery slope and make it difficult to keep our pricing down.

Unfortunately, I’m not sure there’s a way to automate making them, unless Joe has another idea…

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Jack,

Go ahead and give it a try now, it should work. Sorry about the inconvenience and thanks for purchasing CabWriter!

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Jack,

I’m looking at it right now; was unaware it was doing that, so thanks for bringing it to my attention. I’ll let you know when I get it fixed…

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Jeremy,

Maybe a call could be useful, but unless you send us a model and some pictures of what’s happening in real life, it’s not going to be any easier for us to understand what the problem is on a call either. We just can’t picture what you’re talking about. Can you first send us the model, then send us a picture of what’s happening in real life so we can understand what the problem is first, then if it’s not obvious what the problem is, we can get on a zoom call or something.

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Jeremy,

I think you need to give us even more detail on what is going on. You’re saying that everything is correct in the CabWriter model, but then you build it and it comes out differently? Are you saying that the cutlist is wrong or some other documentation? If it is correct in the SketchUp model, how could it come out different in real life, unless maybe the documentation was wrong? But, I would assume when you’re building it that you would double check the face frame cutlist measurements against the box, or maybe I’m missing the point completely. Could you send pictures of what’s happening in real life? Would that help us understand?

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Mathew,

Glad you’re enjoying CabWriter so far. Your file did not upload apparently because it was too large, but I am familiar with the concept of nailers with a 1/4″ back. We’ve never gotten a request for that, so we’ve not gone there. We’ve always had to be cautious about what we implement in order to keep the cost of CabWriter so low, so we typically add things that are requested by a quorum of our customers, so I can’t promise we’ll be able to do so. To some degree, this is the same as our philosophy on drawing biscuit slots and things like that. As long as you can draw the sides and back properly with the inset, I assume you’ll just cut the nailers to size and install when you build the cabinets, so maybe you could get by without actually having them drawn in? I realize they wouldn’t be on the cutlist, but I would imagine you make up a bunch of nailer material and just cut it to size as needed, but maybe you do it differently.

As an aside, I spent almost 15 years running a cabinetmaking school and one of the perks was getting to visit quite a large number of high end custom cabinet shops over the years and that really shaped my construction methods over the years. I got to incorporate a lot of the best practices that I observed over the years. One of the best things I learned was to use 1/2″ backs, with the simplest solution being to just screw them on, although a lot of people also put them in a groove with a rabbet on the backs themselves. This seems like it costs more because 1/2″ material is more than 1/4″, but the savings in labor with not having to deal with the nailers typically makes up for the more expensive material. The other nice side benefit is that you can screw through any part of the back, not just the nailers. I wrote up an article and did a video on my construction methods if you’re interested. It’s on our website at: https://cabwritersoftware.com/education/cabinet-construction/

I’ve made some minor changes to the method over the years, but for the most part, it’s the same. For example, now I’m using the plastic euro legs instead of the ladder base, but the backs are still the same. Not trying to change your methods, but it’s something to think about. We’ll add the nailers to our list of potential features, but like I mentioned, I can’t guarantee anything.

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi there,

Thanks for giving us a try. We have a number of videos that might help. If you haven’t watched this quick start video, it would be a quick way to get familiar with the concept of changing parameters and loading up frameless parameters.

CabWriter Overview Video

We also offer a very in depth video training series that goes through all the ins and outs of CabWriter that you can access here:

CabWriter 3 Comprehensive Training

It’s based on version 3, but the general concepts still apply. Other than that, we have a whole bunch of short videos about various functions on this page.

CabWriter How To Videos

Some are on older versions, but again, the general concepts still apply.

Let me know if this helps…

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Terrell,

After kicking it over with Joe some more, we think we have an idea that may work. Draw it as a lower on the floor; just get the dimensions right, set the bottom inset and don’t draw the toe kick. Draw it somewhere out of the way in your drawing, and then just leave it there for the duration. Alternatively, you can move it with native move tools to where you want it in the model, but don’t bother changing names or anything else. We think that should work. Just remember if you move it and redraw the cabinet, it’ll go back to its original position. Also, it’ll show up on the base cabinet layers and be called a base cabinet in the cutlist and documentation, but that shouldn’t be a big deal.

Let us know how it works out…

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Terrell,

After kicking it over with Joe some more, we think we have an idea that may work. Draw it as a lower on the floor; just get the dimensions right, set the bottom inset and don’t draw the toe kick. Draw it somewhere out of the way in your drawing, and then just leave it there for the duration. Alternatively, you can move it with native move tools to where you want it in the model, but don’t bother changing names or anything else. We think that should work. Just remember if you move it and redraw the cabinet, it’ll go back to its original position. Also, it’ll show up on the base cabinet layers and be called a base cabinet in the cutlist and documentation, but that shouldn’t be a big deal.

Let us know how it works out…

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Brent,

On the Upper Cabinets tab in the lower left, you’ll set the Bottom Inset parameter to zero. Notice it’s set to 1 1/8″ in the attached screenshot which is why you’re seeing the different in size.

Thanks,
Greg

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[cabwriter]

Hi Michael,

I’m curious how you deal with hinges on a door with such a large overlay? What type of hinges do you use? Since very little of the FF shows, what is the downside of using a narrower FF with a smaller overlay because the exterior look would be the same. Also, wouldn’t it give you larger openings? Seems like you’re artificially restricting the opening side but not gaining anything from an external look point of view. Just curious, I’ve never run across this type of overlay before, so was curious how you arrived at it…

As Joe mentioned, we will put it on the list, but I can’t guarantee anything at this point…

Thanks,
Greg

[cabwriter]

Hi Brent,

Cool, glad to hear you’re making your way through the tutorials. Just to clarify, are you saying that if you draw a wall using native SketchUp tools, that you can use the rectangle tool to punch a hole through the wall, but if you use the wall tool, you’re unable to do the same thing? If so, that’s a new one on us. The wall tool simply uses the native SketchUp tools to draw the wall. I’ve punched tons of holes in walls that were made using the wall tool. Is there any chance you could make a little movie capturing your screen while you’re trying to do the operation and send it to us so we can try and spot something? Do you know how to do that? If not, we’ll do something else…

Thanks,
Greg

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